It is all too easy, for the average Brit, to be clueless in Bulgaria. The Bulgarian language is, initially at
least, impenetrable. What Greek roots it shares with English are obfuscated by
the Cyrillic alphabet and the absence of Latin roots afford the uninitiated
Western European no easy comfort. However, there is much more to the
cluelessness than language and alphabets.
One might say that Western Europe’s inheritance from the
Roman Empire is taken directly from Rome whereas much of the cultural and
religious heritage of Eastern Europe stems not from Rome but from Byzantium.
If the above is true, we Westerners have missed out on much
of what Byzantium had to offer and so a trip to Bulgaria is always going to be a
source of interesting differences.
For example, the monks of Western Europe brewed wines and
beers, but in the Orthodox monasteries of the East, rakia and vodka were
preferred. And rakia, unlike spirits in Western Europe, is drunk at the
beginning of the meal rather than the end, so the alcohol rides an uncluttered
highway, straight into the blood stream, from an empty stomach. You take the
hit harder and faster.
If you have been hit with a sledgehammer, you are less likely to object to eating tripe.
If you have been hit with a sledgehammer, you are less likely to object to eating tripe.
Fear, East and West
The West has often looked East to find an embodiment for its
fears.
It is no coincidence that Bram Stoker, worming his way
through the Whitby library more than a century ago, had an Eureka moment when
he came across stories of a Rumanian thug called Vladimir Dracul, also known as
Vlad the Impaler, prince of Wallachia and a member of the noble house of
Draculesti. From there to the titillating gothic horrors of Dracula, that tapped
straight into a rich seam of Western fears of the East, there was but one leap
of imagination.
Colourful, albeit nasty, Rumanian counts have been replaced
these days by a new generation of airbrushed, young adult vampires, but in Eastern
Europe, Vlad is by no means dead.
If David Cameron had replaced his pin striped trousers for
combat fatigues and stripped off his shirt for a photo shoot that shows him
flexing and squatting manfully beside a river running through a forest, he
would have been evicted from 10 Downing Street long before Brexit and long before the howls of
derision petered out. But when Vladimir
Putin did exactly that, posing as the Pan-Slavic alpha male, modelling an ideal of empowered
masculinity, he tapped straight into an undercurrent of what flows though the
collective psyche of his constituents, or at least half of them: if you want to
impale, impregnate and spawn, shout the photographs, here is the recipe.
Obviously, a gross generalization and blatantly unfair. But
in rural Bulgaria, it is not unusual to see young (and not so young) under
employed males milling around outside corner shops dressed in Putinesque combat
fatigues, with short-cropped Putinesque hair and Putinesque musculature. A
heavy pall of not-quite-living-up-to-their-own-expectations hangs over these
little gatherings.
So what? Youths hanging out in aimless harmony is also a
common sight in Western Europe. But would you, for example, see British youths
modelling themselves on a foreign leader, such as Barack Obama? It is much more
likely that they would be aping pop stars or footballers: for Western kids, the
problem of identity and manhood is not driven by a sense of national
humiliation.
So in the absence of benefits of EU membership, Putin will
continue to hold a powerful allure for potentially angry young men. Rural
Bulgaria is poor and underdeveloped. In Kalofer, a small town in the Valley of
Roses (that figures in no tourist guides I have seen but where we stayed for
four nights), nothing much happens. Ancient Ladas rust on the roadsides in the
interminable and pathetic wait to become collector items for rich foreigners, a
donkey clip clops wearily down the cobbled street pulling an oversized cart,
old ladies in black hobble past avoiding eye contact, a young buck fixing his battered
Volkswagen Polo’s electrics banters to a young girl walking by. She smiles archly, but doesn’t lose her
stride.
Young, frustrated men in Bulgaria will no doubt feel that
the status quo affords them little to be proud of in themselves. The conquering hero of a Russian Crimea, by
contrast to his Western detractors, knows how to reach this receptive audience.
There is another twist available to Putin’s publicity
campaign:
Frustrated male pride implies a sense of injury and
humiliation, the blame for which is all too easily pinned to the arrogant,
affluent, successful and culturally insensitive West.
Putin is the living proof that a brotherhood of Slavs
resents the success of the West as much as the West feels a gut lurching,
innate fear of the East. At a time of
reckoning (and certainly at the time of writing), all the West has to offer is
a shabby promise of prosperity, whose credibility has been seriously dented
since 2008.
So was it a good idea that Bulgaria was made part of the EU
and NATO, a status that duty binds us to defend them like our own, even when a
large percentage of the population may not want ‘defending’?
Hmmmm.
Bulgars and Bulgaria
On arrival in Bulgaria, the first thing we did was to visit
the National History Museum, located on the lower slopes of the hills above
Sofia, in what was previously the palatial residence of the Communist ruler.
By Western standards, it is a small history museum. However, one aspect of the museum provided a
very distinct impression of the Bulgarian national character: for 500 years, the
country was occupied by the Ottoman Empire. However, in the National History
Museum of Bulgaria, there is not one reference to the Turks. This denial of 500 years of history points to
a deep trauma and lasting bitterness. Which in turn points to weakness, or at
least a lack of self confidence.
This cannot have been always the case, as there was twice
such a thing as the Bulgarian Empire, that rivaled Byzantium as a power in the
region.
This was news to me. Our travels around Bulgaria only reinforced
this sense of ignorance. On the first floor of the Museum, there was an
exhibition of Bulgarian traditional dress.
In these dresses there was a clear Middle Eastern influence, which one
might think comes from the Turks.
However, the Bulgars (a semi-nomadic Turkic people, according to
Wikipedia.org) originated in Asia. Then, in the 7th century, Slavic
tribes moved into the area, again from the East, followed by the Mongols in the
13th Century who eventually subdued them. Somewhere in between, the
Bulgarians fitted in two empires, but still it is clear that there are plenty
of Asian influences predating the Turks.
At this point I have to declare that the more I read about
Bulgaria, the more my notions fragment and the more shocked at my ignorance I
become. The dynamics and history of the Eastern end of Europe are simply not in
my cultural baggage nor in my general knowledge. I doubt very much that I am
unique in this regard.
So, when trying to understand the place, the best option is probably
to try to answer simple questions.
For example:
When, if ever, did Bulgaria become European?
The Bulgars arrived from Asia; the Slavs from somewhere in
Western Asia; the Mongols came charging across the steppes from the Far East and
conquered what is now Bulgaria, then fizzled out; the Byzantine Empire came and
went a couple of times; and then came the Turks and the Ottoman Empire. All of these successive waves are Asian, not
European (you would have to go back to the times of Ancient Greece to the
Thracians to find a tribe with whom the rest of Europe shares any cultural
heritage). Therefore, the Bulgarians are Europeans more by an arbitrary quirk of
geography than any ethnic or cultural heritage.
The Turks were finally kicked out in 1878 by the Russians
who, by that time had become fairly European in outlook (they spoke French at
the Tsar’s court), so 1878 is probably the best answer to the question of when
Bulgaria became European rather than Asian.
1878, as in 136 years ago, the same time as Argentina
ethnically cleansed the Pampas of native Indians. A blink of the eye in
cultural terms. However, most of these tribes that I am saying were Asian (with
the exception of the Mongols), were still Caucasian, ie, they came from no
further East than the Caucasus mountains between the Black and the Caspian
Sea. As white races are often referred
to as Caucasian, it begs the question where Asia ends and Europe begins.
However, these racial classifications dissolve into a blur the more you read
about them and they also lend themselves all too readily to racism, as in white
skin good, not white skin bad. So best
to steer clear when not in full command of the facts.
Going back to Bulgaria and its identity:
The campaign to oust the Turks was fought not so much by the
Bulgarians themselves, as by the ‘Eastern Orthodox Coalition’, led by Imperial
Russia. It sounds about as nasty a war as wars can be: battles were brutal and
bloody and the embittered and traumatised Bulgarians had little mercy for their
prisoners.
After leaving Kalofer, we travelled through the Shipka Pass across
the Balkan Mountains on our way to Tryavna. The Balkan Mountains split Bulgaria
East to West in two, and the Shipka Pass was therefore a vital route for
reinforcements for one side as much as the other. It was consequently the scene of one of the most
decisive battles of the war. The brutality and carnage of the battle (August
1877), is an untold story as far as I am concerned: I know nothing about it. Given
the dramatic, suicidal savagery with which it was fought, and its geo-political
importance, it has to rank up there with the Normandy landings in
European history. Yet we (as in the average Western European) know nothing
about it.
I found a quote in Wikipedia.org describing the Russo-Turkish
war that points to the fact that Russia’s injured pride about lost territory is
nothing new:
“The Russo-Turkish
War of 1877–78 was a conflict between the Ottoman Empire and the Eastern Orthodox coalition led by the Russian Empire and composed of several Balkan countries. Fought in the Balkans and in the Caucasus, it originated in emerging 19th-century Balkan nationalism. Additional factors included Russian hopes of recovering territorial
losses suffered during the Crimean War, re-establishing itself in the Black Sea, and supporting the political movement attempting to free Balkan
nations from the Ottoman Empire.”
At the Southern end of the Shipka Pass, we visited the
Russian Orthodox Shipka Church, built by the Russians after the war as a
memorial to the battle. In the basement,
I found a plaque (translated into English) that stated:
“This church was built
to commemorate the everlasting fraternal
friendship between the Russian and Bulgarian peoples.”
Battlefield Bulgaria
You might think that Bulgaria has enjoyed, over the
centuries, a privileged position as a trading route between East and West but that
has turned out to be a curse rather than an advantage.
A series of Thracian tombs from ancient times, built near Shipka bear witness
to economic and cultural development that was probably the result of huge prosperity
based on trade. The Bulgarians call this
region their Valley of Tombs but this golden age of empowerment did not last. Long enough for a cluster of 20 tombs to be
built, but no more.
There were also two Bulgarian empires, but they didn’t last
either. Ultimately, there were always, it seems, larger forces at play.
For most of its history, Bulgaria has been a battlefield where
foreign wars are waged: wars between East and West, Islam and Christianity, Capitalism
and Communism. As in Jane Austen novels,
the names change, but the story is much the same.
Bulgaria is once again a pawn. This time the players are Europe
and Russia. For a couple of decades, the EU has successfully eroded Russia’s potential
influence and power, by bringing the defunct Soviet Union’s satellite states
into its fold. Now it is Russia’s turn to be on the offensive, gobbling up regions
where they have an ethnic majority. It might well take a war to even try to stop them.
So, if push comes to shove, would Bulgarian loyalties lie with Europe or with Russia?
So, if push comes to shove, would Bulgarian loyalties lie with Europe or with Russia?
Our Bulgarian guide was not at all certain.
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